girls in white dresses

May 31, 2025

You might recall a few months back when Melanie's exquisite red Nutcracker Garden Party dress caught everyone's attention on our blog. Melanie, who writes over at Queen of the Flies, has graced us with her presence today to share insights on crafting white dresses for significant events like christenings, baptisms, first communions, or even as flower girl attire for weddings. Contrary to common fears, white clothing for kids is a fantastic choice. It looks pristine and radiant, and although it demands additional attention during construction, there’s nothing quite as endearing as little girls dressed in white.

 

Customized Oliver + S Fairy Tale Dress

 

One of my absolute favorite sewing projects has to be a small white dress. Think of it as the little girl version of a timeless little black dress—classic and versatile for numerous special occasions. White remains the go-to hue for key moments like baptisms, portraits, first communions, graduations, or even your child’s wedding day. But it can also be effortlessly casual and relaxed. I suspect we all harbor a fondness for seeing little ones in white dresses—sashes or not included.

 

Oliver + S Roller Skate Dress with sash

 

Oliver + S Roller Skate Dress with sash

 

Creating something unique within the confines of a single color is always a thrilling design challenge. To infuse interest into a white dress, I take inspiration from designers who work with monochromatic rooms: play around with textures. Lace, tucks, pleats, embroidery, contrasting elements—it’s endless! The sheer nature of some white fabrics can itself become a textured feature.


 
Big lace bow on the back of a white dress

 

Lace can either be layered onto your garment or pieced together to form a “fancy band” that can be incorporated into the bodice or skirt hem. Tucks can range from minuscule to large and everything in between. They’re simple yet charming on their own or can be further embellished with decorative stitching. Hand embroidery adds a touch of personalization, but you can also find pre-embroidered fabrics if you prefer.

 

Fancy band on a skirt hem

 

Some patterns already incorporate intricate details. For instance, the overlapping neckline of the Library Dress could beautifully highlight a striped fabric. The ruched bodice of the Garden Party Dress would look enchantingly romantic in delicate white voile. And those sweet tulip sleeves from the Fairy Tale Dress can create texture, as I’ve done here with sheer organdy sleeves.

 

Oliver + S Fairy Tale Dress tulip sleeves in sheer organdy

 

The Fairy Tale dress is my go-to pattern for special occasions. Its classic silhouette serves as a blank canvas for endless creative ideas. Here’s a straightforward version in white broderie anglaise. I reworked the sleeves and added a full separate sash with loops, allowing you to swap out the sash for a completely different look.

 

Oliver + S Fairy Tale Dress with sash

 

Oliver + S Fairy Tale Dress with sash

 

Another example of the Fairy Tale dress features fine cotton organdy with an embroidered edge. Adapted silk satin roses, inspired by the Dior rose tutorial, highlight the waistline.

 

Customized Oliver + S Fairy Tale Dress

 

Working with white fabrics requires special attention, but it’s not as daunting as it seems. Before beginning a white project, I ensure my workspace is pristine—cleaning my ironing board cover, iron, and sewing machine. I replace the needle and rotary cutting blade, opting for silk pins reserved for special projects. These pins don’t snag or leave marks. Since distinguishing the right side from the wrong side can be tricky, I pin a piece of tissue paper to the correct side.

 

Pin a piece of tissue paper to the right sides

 

Even heavier white fabrics tend to have some degree of transparency, necessitating careful handling of markings and seam finishes. I prefer using the wax paper method for transferring patterns, but permanent marks are strictly off-limits when working with white fabric! While there are various markers or pencils that might work, you should always test them thoroughly before use. Instead of wasting time testing, I rely on tiny snips or tailor’s tacks to mark my fabric. I’ve also noticed that my tracing wheel sometimes leaves faint imprints without the wax paper.

Given their inherent translucency, seam allowances will often show on white garments. Depending on your desired outcome, there are several approaches. Underlining with a more opaque fabric reduces seam visibility and offers coverage. My formal white dresses are typically underlined with cotton poplin, which provides excellent coverage and support. For a more fluid look, silk/cotton Radiance satins work well too—they’re quite opaque and would suit a voile Garden Party dress, for instance, where movement and drape are important.

Of course, you can embrace seam visibility—it can add charm, especially in casual designs like a linen dress meant for beach portraits.

Neat seam finishes are crucial with white fabrics. French seams are my absolute favorite for many applications, particularly for fine white dresses. Usually, I finish all layers of the skirt with French seams. I also use them in sheer sleeves and at the armholes. They're smoother and far more comfortable to wear. Despite the bias nature of armholes, French seams aren't as challenging as they seem—I promise!

To hem a sheer fabric, precision is key. Cut accurately and hem by hand. I adore the appearance of a 4-inch double-fold hem, similar to the one in the Fairy Tale dress. Take extra care when hand-hemming to ensure your stitches remain invisible. Ever heard of this clever trick for evenly spaced stitches?

Regular sewing thread can be visible on sheer fabrics! Coats and Clark offer a fine white thread that works well for lightweight fabrics. I’ve spotted it at my local Jo-Ann store.

My preferred white fabrics are natural fibers. Cotton is my go-to, but I also adore silk and linen. Here are some fascinating white fabric options:

 

White fabric suggestions

 

1. Cotton voile stripe
2. Swiss organdy with embroidery
3. Cotton embroidered circles with circular eyelets
4. Embroidered deluxe eyelet lineal globes
5. Sweet eyelet
6. Jacquard with shots of silver
7. Embroidered Swiss voile
8. Cotton seersucker stripe

Thank you so much Melanie for sharing your expertise and experiences—your white dresses are absolutely stunning!



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